Pasta alla Gricia
The ancestor of both carbonara and amatriciana: guanciale, pecorino and black pepper, with no egg and no tomato. Four ingredients, and the emulsion is everything.
Photograph credit: Pasta alla Gricia by Luca Nebuloni from Milan, Italy · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Photograph credit: Gricia (7378890110) by Luca Nebuloni from Milan, Italy · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Method
Tap a step to highlight it, or turn on Cook Mode for large type and step-by-step focus.
-
Put the guanciale in a cold, dry frying pan with the olive oil and set it over medium-low heat.
-
Render slowly for 8 to 10 minutes until the fat has run and the pieces are golden and crisp at the edges but still yielding in the middle.
-
Lift the guanciale out with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving all the fat in the pan.
-
Toast the cracked pepper in that fat for 30 seconds until it smells sharp, then take the pan off the heat.
-
Boil the pasta in salted water — less salt than usual, as the guanciale and pecorino are both salty — until 2 minutes short of al dente.
-
Reserve two mugs of pasta water and drain.
-
Add the pasta to the pan with a ladleful of water and return to medium heat, tossing hard for 2 minutes until the pasta finishes cooking and the water turns cloudy.
-
Take the pan off the heat and wait 30 seconds. Add the pecorino a handful at a time, tossing constantly and adding water as needed, until the sauce is glossy and clings.
-
Fold the guanciale back through and serve immediately, with more pecorino and pepper.
Chef’s Tips
- Off the heat for the cheese. Pecorino in a hot pan turns to rubber strings and there is no recovering it.
- Guanciale, not pancetta. The cured jowl renders differently and its fat is the sauce.
- Keep more pasta water than you think you need. The sauce tightens as it sits and needs loosening.
Pairing Suggestions
- A Roman white such as Frascati
- Nothing else — it is a complete plate
- A puntarelle salad, in season
Storage & Reheating
Eat immediately. The emulsion breaks on reheating and cannot be brought back.
Common questions
How long does Pasta alla Gricia take to make?
About 25 minutes in total — 5 minutes of preparation and 20 minutes of cooking. The recipe serves 4.
What are the key tips for making Pasta alla Gricia?
Off the heat for the cheese. Pecorino in a hot pan turns to rubber strings and there is no recovering it. Guanciale, not pancetta. The cured jowl renders differently and its fat is the sauce. Keep more pasta water than you think you need. The sauce tightens as it sits and needs loosening.
What should I serve with Pasta alla Gricia?
A Roman white such as Frascati; Nothing else — it is a complete plate; A puntarelle salad, in season.
Is Pasta alla Gricia suitable for a special diet?
This recipe is no added sugar. Those labels are checked against the ingredient list, so a dish is only marked when nothing in it contradicts the claim.
How many calories are in Pasta alla Gricia?
About 688 kcal per serving, with 28 g protein, 76 g carbohydrate and 30 g fat. The figures are calculated from the ingredient list and are an estimate.
Nutritional Highlights
Per serving, calculated from the ingredient list. Treat these as an estimate — brands and cuts vary.
Reader Reviews
Cooked this? Leave a review
Written and tested by Turab
One person, one kitchen — no test kitchen, no team. How every recipe on this site is checked before it goes up.