Desserts
Classic Tiramisu
The Venetian classic, built on a properly cooked zabaglione so it sets firm without gelatine and carries no raw-egg…
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Italian recipes
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Italian recipes — all 136 recipes
Dinner
Spaghetti Carbonara
Real Roman carbonara has no cream in it — just eggs, Pecorino, guanciale and black pepper emulsified into a glossy…
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Dinner
Margherita Pizza
The Neapolitan original: a blistered, cloud-edged crust under nothing more than San Marzano tomatoes, milky fior di…
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Dinner
Lasagna Bolognese
A proper lasagne alla Bolognese is a study in patience: a three-hour ragù, a nutmeg-scented besciamella and…
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Baking
Focaccia Genovese
A high-hydration dough dimpled hard, flooded with olive oil and brine, and baked until the top is blistered gold and…
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Dinner
Chicken Parmigiana
Shatteringly crisp breaded cutlets under a thin blanket of sauce and mozzarella, grilled just long enough to melt…
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Quick Meals
Spaghetti Aglio e Olio
Four ingredients, twelve minutes, and one of the great late-night dishes of the world. The whole thing turns on how…
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Dinner
Fettuccine Alfredo
Before the cream and the garlic crept in, Alfredo was three ingredients: pasta, butter and Parmigiano, whipped…
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Desserts
Vanilla Gelato
Proper Italian gelato: less fat, less air and served warmer than ice cream, which is why it tastes so much more…
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Baking
Rosemary Focaccia
A high-hydration focaccia with a crackling, olive-oil-fried base and a crumb full of irregular holes, dimpled with…
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Desserts
Sicilian Cannoli
Blistered fried shells filled to order with sweetened sheep's-milk ricotta and candied peel. Filling them any…
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Quick Meals
Pasta Puttanesca
Tomatoes, anchovies, olives, capers and chilli — a sauce built entirely from the store cupboard in the time the…
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Quick Meals
Pesto alla Genovese
Genoese pesto made the traditional way, with basil bruised rather than blitzed, so the sauce stays emerald green…
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Dinner
Melanzane alla Parmigiana
Layers of fried aubergine, tomato, basil and mozzarella baked until the edges catch and the middle sets into…
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Quick Meals
Cacio e Pepe
Two ingredients, one technique, endless opportunity to get it wrong. This cacio e pepe recipe uses a Pecorino slurry…
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Dinner
Gnocchi alla Sorrentina
Potato gnocchi baked under tomato sauce and mozzarella until the top blisters and the cheese pulls. From the…
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Appetizers
Tomato Bruschetta
Charred bread rubbed hard with raw garlic, doused in olive oil, and piled with tomatoes that have been salted just…
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Dinner
Bucatini all'Amatriciana
The Roman classic from Amatrice: guanciale rendered until crisp, tomatoes cooked down in the rendered fat, and…
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Dinner
Spaghetti alle Vongole
Clams opened in white wine and garlic, their liquor emulsified with olive oil and pasta water into a sauce that…
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Baking
Almond Biscotti
Twice-baked almond biscuits, hard enough to dunk and dry enough to keep for a month. The second bake is what makes…
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Dinner
Pasta e Fagioli
Pasta and beans, cooked together so the pasta starch thickens the broth into something between a soup and a stew…
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Appetizers
Caprese Salad
Three ingredients in the colours of the Italian flag, which means there is nowhere to hide. Ripe tomatoes at room…
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Quick Meals
Penne all'Arrabbiata
Angry pasta, and rightly so: garlic bloomed slowly in olive oil, dried chilli, and tomatoes cooked hard enough to…
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Dinner
Chicken Milanese
Chicken breast beaten thin, breaded and fried in butter until the crust is deep gold. Milanese in method, and the…
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Dinner
Potato Gnocchi with Sage Butter
Pillowy potato gnocchi that float rather than sink, dressed in nothing more than nut-brown butter and crisped sage…
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Dinner
Pasta alla Norma
Catania's great pasta: fried aubergine folded into a bright tomato sauce and finished with salty ricotta salata…
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Desserts
Vanilla Panna Cotta
A vanilla panna cotta set at the exact edge of collapse, so it wobbles under a spoon and melts on the tongue. Five…
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Dinner
Ragù Napoletano
Naples' answer to bolognese, and nothing like it: whole cuts of beef and pork simmered in tomato for four hours…
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Lunch
Ribollita
Tuscan bread soup: cannellini beans, cavolo nero and soffritto cooked down, thickened with stale bread and then…
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Dinner
Risotto alla Milanese
The saffron risotto that Milan built its reputation on: bone-marrow rich, sunset gold, and finished with a violent…
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Baking
Panettone
The Milanese Christmas bread: a sweet, heavily enriched dough proved three times over two days, studded with candied…
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Quick Meals
Pasta alla Gricia
The ancestor of both carbonara and amatriciana: guanciale, pecorino and black pepper, with no egg and no tomato…
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Healthy
Minestrone Soup
A big, generous vegetable soup built on a slow soffritto and thickened by the beans themselves rather than cream…
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Healthy
Tuscan Panzanella
A Tuscan salad built to use up stale bread: torn crusts soaked in tomato juice and vinegar until they turn silky…
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Desserts
Torta Caprese
A flourless chocolate and almond cake from Capri with a crisp top and a dense, fudgy middle. Naturally gluten-free…
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Appetizers
Sicilian Caponata
Sicilian sweet-and-sour aubergine with celery, olives and capers, finished with vinegar and sugar. Served at room…
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Dinner
Creamy Parmesan Polenta
Coarse cornmeal cooked slowly with plenty of liquid until it turns silky, then finished with butter and Parmigiano…
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Dinner
Saltimbocca alla Romana
Veal escalopes under a sage leaf and a slice of prosciutto, pan-fried and finished with a white wine butter sauce…
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Dinner
Osso Buco alla Milanese
Cross-cut veal shanks braised until the meat collapses and the marrow turns to butter, finished with a raw hit of…
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Desserts
Zeppole
Choux buns fried rather than baked, split and filled with pastry cream, and topped with an amarena cherry. Made for…
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Dinner
Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa
Puglia on a plate: little ear-shaped pasta cooked with broccoli rabe in the same water, then tossed with anchovy…
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Appetizers
Sicilian Arancini
Sicilian rice balls with a molten mozzarella and ragù heart, breadcrumbed and fried until they shatter…
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Appetizers
Vitello Tonnato
Cold poached veal under a sauce of tuna, anchovy and capers blended into mayonnaise. It sounds wrong on paper and is…
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Lunch
Tuna and White Bean Salad
Tinned tuna and cannellini beans dressed with lemon, olive oil and red onion — the Tuscan store-cupboard lunch, and…
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Lunch
Roasted Tomato and Basil Soup
Tomatoes roasted until they collapse and caramelise at the edges, blended with garlic and basil. No sugar, because…
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Dinner
Lentil and Walnut Ragù
Brown lentils and toasted walnuts cooked down with soffritto, tomato and a long simmer into something with the depth…
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Dinner
Garlic Prawns with Courgette Noodles
Prawns cooked hard in garlic, chilli and olive oil, tossed through courgette ribbons that never see a pan — 38 g of…
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Baking
Garlic Confit Focaccia
A cold-fermented focaccia with a head of garlic confited in olive oil and folded through the dough, so the flavour…
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Dinner
Chicken Alfredo
Seared chicken over fettuccine in a sauce built from butter, cream and a great deal of real Parmigiano, emulsified…
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Dinner
Chicken Marsala
Floured cutlets, a pan full of browned mushrooms and a sauce reduced from dry Marsala and stock until it is glossy…
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Dinner
Chicken Piccata
Sharp, bright and finished in twenty minutes: thin cutlets in a lemon and caper sauce that gets its body from butter…
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Dinner
Spaghetti Bolognese
A three-hour ragù with milk in it, finished with the pasta rather than ladled over it. Not the twenty-minute version…
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Dinner
Penne alla Vodka
The pink sauce, done properly: tomato purée cooked hard until it darkens, vodka to carry the aromatics, and cream…
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Breakfast
Vegetable Frittata
Eggs started on the hob and finished under a grill, with the vegetables cooked properly first so they do not water…
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Quick Meals
Shrimp Scampi
Prawns, garlic, white wine, lemon and a great deal of butter, over linguine, in twenty minutes. The prawns come out…
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Drinks
Aperol Spritz
Three, two, one: prosecco, Aperol, soda. Built in the glass over a great deal of ice, with the prosecco going in…
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Holiday Specials
Panforte di Siena
A flat, dense Sienese slab of nuts, dried fruit and spice held together by nothing but boiled honey and sugar…
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Dinner
Courgette Lasagne
Courgette planks salted, griddled and used in place of pasta, under a proper ragù and a béchamel. The griddling is…
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Healthy
Farro and Roasted Vegetable Salad
Nutty grains against sweet roasted vegetables, with the dressing going onto the farro while it is still warm so it…
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Healthy
Italian Chopped Salad
Salami, provolone, chickpeas and pepperoncini chopped small under a red wine vinaigrette sharp enough to stand up to…
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Quick Meals
Tuna and Caper Pasta
Store-cupboard pasta that tastes like it took an hour: tuna in oil, capers, chilli and lemon, emulsified with pasta…
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Dinner
Griddled Aubergine Parmigiana
Aubergine slices salted, then griddled rather than fried, layered with a long-simmered tomato sauce and two cheeses…
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Dinner
Tuscan White Bean Stew
Cannellini beans, kale and a whole head of garlic softened into a broth thickened by mashing a ladleful of the…
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Appetizers
Bagna Cauda
A hot bath of anchovy, garlic and oil kept warm at the table for dipping raw vegetables into. Piedmont in November…
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Appetizers
Carpaccio di Manzo
Raw beef beaten paper-thin under a mustard mayonnaise, rocket and parmesan. Invented at Harry's Bar in Venice for a…
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Appetizers
Baccalà Mantecato
Salt cod beaten with oil until it turns into a pale, fluffy cream. No potato, no garlic — Venice is firm about both.
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Appetizers
Sarde in Saor
Fried sardines buried in sweet-sour onions with pine nuts and raisins. Venetian sailors' food, and it needs two days…
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Appetizers
Insalata di Mare
Squid, prawns and mussels dressed with nothing but lemon, oil, garlic and parsley. Every element cooked separately…
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Appetizers
Fritto Misto
Seafood dusted in semolina flour and fried for a minute. The coating is nearly invisible, which is the difference…
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Appetizers
Carciofi alla Romana
Artichokes braised upside down in oil, water and a great deal of mint until they can be cut with a spoon. Roman…
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Appetizers
Carciofi alla Giudia
Artichokes flattened into a bronze flower and fried twice, from the Roman Jewish ghetto. The outer leaves should…
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Appetizers
Fiori di Zucca Fritti
Courgette flowers filled with ricotta and mozzarella, dipped in a thin batter and fried. The batter should be barely…
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Appetizers
Supplì
Roman rice croquettes with a piece of mozzarella at the centre that pulls into a thread when you bite it. Supplì al…
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Appetizers
Panelle
Chickpea flour cooked into a paste, set flat, cut into squares and fried. Palermo eats them in a bread roll, which…
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Appetizers
Giardiniera
Hard vegetables blanched and packed under vinegar and oil. Every Italian household has a jar and no two agree on…
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Dinner
Tagliatelle al Ragù
The Bologna ragù, which contains almost no tomato and cooks for three hours. Served on fresh egg tagliatelle and…
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Dinner
Tortellini in Brodo
Tiny filled pasta in clear capon broth, and nothing else. Emilia at Christmas, and the broth matters as much as the…
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Dinner
Agnolotti del Plin
Piedmontese filled pasta pinched shut along a single strip, so a row of them comes off the sheet in one go. Plin…
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Dinner
Culurgiones
Sardinian parcels of potato, mint and pecorino, closed with a pleat that looks like an ear of wheat. The pleat takes…
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Dinner
Malloreddus alla Campidanese
Ridged saffron gnocchetti with a sausage and tomato sauce. Sardinia's everyday pasta, and the ridges exist to hold…
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Dinner
Strozzapreti alla Boscaiola
Hand-rolled twists in a boscaiola of mushrooms, sausage and cream. The name means priest-stranglers and nobody has a…
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Dinner
Pici all'Aglione
Fat hand-rolled Tuscan spaghetti in a sauce of nothing but garlic, tomato and oil. Aglione is a giant sweet garlic…
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Dinner
Pappardelle al Cinghiale
Wild boar marinated in red wine and stewed for three hours, on wide ribbons. Tuscany, and juniper is what makes it…
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Dinner
Trofie al Pesto
Ligurian twists with potato and green beans cooked in the same water, all dressed in pesto. The potato is not a…
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Dinner
Pizzoccheri della Valtellina
Buckwheat ribbons layered with cabbage, potato and melting cheese under browned butter and sage. Alpine food, and…
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Dinner
Pasta alla Genovese
Naples' onion ragù, in which four kilos of onions cook down for four hours with a piece of beef until they turn…
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Lunch
Pasta e Ceci
Chickpeas and broken pasta cooked into a thick soup with rosemary. Roman, cheap, and better than the sum of its…
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Dinner
Pasta con le Sarde
Sardines, wild fennel, raisins, pine nuts and saffron. Sicily's Arab inheritance on a plate, and the toasted…
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Dinner
Busiate al Pesto Trapanese
Trapani's pesto: almonds instead of pine nuts, raw tomato instead of just basil. Made in a mortar and never cooked.
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Dinner
Anelletti al Forno
Little pasta rings baked with ragù, peas and cheese into something you can cut in slices. Palermo eats it at room…
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Dinner
Fregola con Arselle
Toasted Sardinian pasta pearls cooked like a risotto with clams. The toasting is what separates fregola from couscous.
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Dinner
Risotto ai Funghi Porcini
Rice cooked in mushroom stock made from the soaking water of dried porcini. That water is the flavour and pouring it…
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Dinner
Risotto al Nero di Seppia
Rice blackened with cuttlefish ink, the cuttlefish itself cooked into it. Venice, and it should be genuinely black…
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Dinner
Risi e Bisi
Venetian rice and peas, looser than a risotto and eaten with a spoon. Served to the Doge every 25 April and still…
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Dinner
Canederli
Bread dumplings with speck, from the Alto Adige, served in broth or with butter. The bread must be properly stale…
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Dinner
Testaroli al Pesto
A thin pancake cooked on a hot stone, cut into diamonds and dipped in boiling water. Arguably the oldest pasta in…
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Dinner
Brasato al Barolo
Beef braised for three hours in a bottle of Barolo until the wine has gone almost black and the meat gives way to a…
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Dinner
Bollito Misto
Several cuts of meat boiled in the same broth and carved at the table with a green sauce. Piedmont and Emilia both…
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Dinner
Coda alla Vaccinara
Oxtail braised four hours with an absurd amount of celery, finished with pine nuts and raisins. The dish the Roman…
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Dinner
Trippa alla Romana
Tripe in tomato with mint and a heavy shower of pecorino. Saturday lunch in Rome, and the mint is not optional.
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Dinner
Porchetta
Pork belly wrapped around loin, packed with fennel and rosemary, roasted until the skin shatters. Umbria and Lazio…
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Dinner
Polpette al Sugo
Meatballs cooked in the sauce rather than before it, so the sauce takes on the meat and the meat stays soft. The…
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Dinner
Involtini di Manzo
Thin beef rolled around cheese, parsley and garlic, then braised in tomato until it can be cut with a spoon. Sicily…
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Quick Meals
Scaloppine al Limone
Veal in a lemon and butter sauce that comes together in the pan in about ninety seconds. Fifteen minutes from cold…
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Dinner
Cotoletta alla Milanese
A veal chop on the bone, breaded and fried in clarified butter. Milan insists on the bone, and Milan is right about…
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Dinner
Cacciucco
Livorno's fish stew, with five kinds of fish for the five Cs in its name, over garlic-rubbed bread. Poor food that…
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Dinner
Brodetto all'Anconetana
The Adriatic answer to cacciucco, sharpened with vinegar instead of wine. Ancona claims thirteen kinds of fish and…
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Lunch
Bagnùn di Acciughe
A thin anchovy and tomato soup from the Ligurian coast, eaten by fishermen out of the pot with hard biscuit. Half an…
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Dinner
Sarde a Beccafico
Butterflied sardines rolled around breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins, packed into a dish with bay leaves and baked…
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Dinner
Parmigiana Bianca
Aubergine parmigiana with no tomato at all — just béchamel, basil and two cheeses. Lighter than it sounds and much…
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Dinner
Peperonata
Peppers and onions cooked down slowly in their own liquid until they collapse into something sweet and jammy. Hot…
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Appetizers
Farinata
A chickpea flour pancake baked screaming hot in a copper pan until the top blisters. Genoa eats it standing up, with…
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Dinner
Torta Pasqualina
A Ligurian Easter pie of chard and ricotta with whole eggs baked inside, under many thin sheets of pastry. Cut…
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Desserts
Sfogliatella Riccia
A shell of a hundred paper-thin leaves around a semolina and ricotta filling. The hardest pastry in Naples and worth…
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Desserts
Babà Napoletano
A yeasted mushroom-shaped cake soaked in rum syrup until it is heavy in the hand. Naples took it from Poland by way…
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Desserts
Pastiera Napoletana
A wheat, ricotta and orange flower tart that Naples makes on Good Friday and eats the following Tuesday. It…
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Desserts
Cassata Siciliana
Sponge, sweetened ricotta and marzipan under a white glaze and a riot of candied fruit. Palermo at its most baroque…
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Baking
Cuccidati
Sicilian fig rolls: a spiced fig, date and nut paste inside a short pastry, cut into little pillows and iced. Made…
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Desserts
Struffoli
Tiny fried dough balls tumbled in honey and heaped into a ring with candied peel and sprinkles. Naples at Christmas…
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Desserts
Zuppa Inglese
Sponge fingers soaked scarlet in alchermes, layered with two custards. Emilia's answer to trifle, and older than the…
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Baking
Torta Sbrisolona
A cake you break rather than cut, sandy with cornmeal and almonds. Mantua has made it since the Gonzagas and it has…
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Baking
Crostata di Marmellata
A jam tart under a lattice, made in every Italian house and eaten for breakfast as often as for pudding. The pastry…
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Baking
Ciambellone
The plain ring cake that sits under a cloth in Italian kitchens all week, dunked in coffee at breakfast and in milk…
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Baking
Colomba Pasquale
The Easter dove: the same enriched dough as panettone, shaped into wings and armoured in almond crust and pearl…
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Baking
Pandoro
Verona's Christmas cake: a tall eight-pointed star of deep yellow butter dough, baked plain and buried in icing…
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Baking
Amaretti Morbidi
Soft almond biscuits, cracked across the top and chewy in the middle. Four ingredients, no flour, and better after a…
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Baking
Pizzelle
Thin anise waffle wafers pressed in a patterned iron, crisp enough to snap. Abruzzo has made them since the eighth…
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Baking
Maritozzo
A soft sweet bun split almost in half and packed with an absurd quantity of whipped cream, then cut flush with a…
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Desserts
Granita di Caffè
Coffee frozen and scraped into loose crystals, eaten with a brioche for breakfast in a Sicilian summer. No machine…
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Drinks
Bellini
White peach purée and prosecco, in that order and in that proportion. Invented at Harry's Bar in Venice and named…
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Baking
Garlic Bread
A baguette split, packed with garlic and parsley butter and baked until the edges crisp and the middle stays soft.
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Quick Meals
Pesto Pasta
Basil pounded with pine nuts and cheese, loosened with pasta water and tossed off the heat. Twenty-two minutes.
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Lunch
Minestrone
Whatever vegetables are about, cooked long and slow with beans and a little pasta. Under an hour, and it improves…
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Dinner
Spaghetti alla Puttanesca
Anchovy, olive, caper and tomato cooked hard for twenty minutes. Nothing in it is fresh and it is one of the best…
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Dinner
Ragù alla Bolognese
Minced beef and pork cooked three hours in milk, wine and a little tomato. Not the red mince sauce, and worth the…
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Dinner
Spaghetti and Meatballs
Meatballs browned and finished in the sauce, over spaghetti. Italian-American, and none the worse for it.
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