Crème Brûlée
A vanilla custard so smooth it barely holds a spoon, under a sheet of caramel thin enough to crack with a tap. The…
Technique-led cooking, from braises to laminated pastry. 128 tested French recipes, from the everyday to the ambitious.
A vanilla custard so smooth it barely holds a spoon, under a sheet of caramel thin enough to crack with a tap. The…
Julia Child put this Burgundian beef stew on every home cook's bucket list, and it earns the effort: beef braised…
Genuinely laminated croissants with a honeycomb interior and a shattering shell — 27 layers of butter folded into…
Forty-five minutes of patient caramelisation turns four pounds of onions into something meltingly sweet and mahogany…
The Parisian macaron, with smooth domed shells, ruffled feet and a chewy centre. This uses the more forgiving French…
The Parisian café sandwich raised to its proper form: ham and Gruyère between buttered pain de mie, blanketed in…
The original quiche has no cheese in it, and once you taste this custard — barely set, heavy on cream, studded with…
Waxy potatoes simmered in garlicky cream and baked until the top is bronzed and the layers have fused into something…
The Provençal original, in which each vegetable is cooked separately before they are married — the only way to get…
The bistro standard done properly: a hard-seared steak rested under herb butter, with twice-fried chips that stay…
The richest bread in the French repertoire: a dough carrying half its weight in butter, worked until it is silky…
Choux buns filled with cold vanilla cream and drowned in hot dark chocolate sauce. The temperature contrast is the…
Mussels steamed open in white wine, shallots and parsley in under ten minutes. The broth they release is the sauce…
A true baguette de tradition: four ingredients, a long cold ferment, and a crust that crackles audibly as it cools…
Proust's shell-shaped tea cakes, with the crisp browned edge and the hump on the back that tells you the batter was…
Duck legs cured in salt overnight, then cooked submerged in their own fat until the meat gives at a touch. A…
Chicken braised in red wine with lardons, mushrooms and pearl onions — the rustic cousin of bourguignon, and faster…
Paper-thin crêpes folded into an orange-caramel butter sauce and flambéed at the table with Grand Marnier. A piece…
A Savoyard mountain bake of potatoes, lardons and onions buried under a whole halved Reblochon, which melts down…
Apples caramelised in butter and sugar directly in the pan, covered with pastry and baked, then flipped to reveal a…
A Limousin dessert somewhere between a flan and a pancake: cherries dropped into a loose batter and baked until it…
Crisp choux shells, split and piped full of vanilla crème pâtissière, capped with a dark chocolate glaze that sets…
Three sheets of caramelised puff pastry alternating with crème pâtissière, topped with the marbled feathered icing…
A Bordeaux pastry with a black, almost burnt caramel shell and a soft, custardy centre shot through with rum and…
A soufflé that rises two inches above the ramekin and stays up long enough to reach the table, with a molten centre…
A Provençal summer vegetable soup finished at the table with pistou — basil, garlic and olive oil pounded to a…
Small pots of dark chocolate custard, baked in a bain-marie until barely set and eaten cold with a spoon. Three…
A composed salad, not a tossed one: each element dressed and arranged separately so every forkful is deliberate…
The dish that made Julia Child fall in love with France: sole floured and fried in butter, finished with foaming…
France's great white stew: veal poached with aromatics, the broth turned into a velouté enriched with cream and egg…
The dish the French call their national plate: beef and marrow bones simmered for hours with whole winter…
Scallops poached in wine, folded into a mushroom velouté, piped back into their shells under Gruyère and browned. A…
Nice's answer to pizza: a bread base under a thick layer of onions cooked down for an hour until they are sweet and…
Rounds of goat cheese on toast, grilled until the surface blisters and the centre slumps, dropped onto dressed…
Bitter leaves, a hot bacon dressing poured over so they half-wilt, croutons fried in the same fat, and a poached egg…
A thick shortcrust shell around a layer of vanilla pastry cream or black cherry jam, scored across the top before…
Marseille's great fisherman's stew: a saffron and fennel broth built from the bones and heads, poured over firm…
The great slow-cooked bean casserole of southwest France: white beans, confit duck, sausage and pork built into…
A single thick pancake of chickpea flour, olive oil and water, baked fierce in a heavy pan until the edges blister —…
Tuna steak seared rare, over green beans, egg, olives and tomato with an anchovy vinaigrette — the Niçoise without…
Ham and Gruyère between buttered bread, blanketed in béchamel, grilled until it bubbles, and crowned with a fried egg.
The pâtisserie window tart: crisp sweet pastry, a proper vanilla crème pâtissière, and whatever fruit is worth…
The shells are the recipe. They are roasted, simmered into a stock, and that stock is reduced hard before any cream…
Four ingredients and no gelatine: melted chocolate, egg yolks, whipped whites and a little cream. The air is all…
Two discs of puff pastry around a frangipane, scored in a sunburst and glazed to a mirror. There is a bean hidden…
A rolled chocolate sponge filled with cream, coated in ganache and dragged with a fork into bark. The sponge is…
Poached eggs on wilted spinach and a toasted muffin under blender hollandaise. The hollandaise takes ninety seconds…
Raw celeriac cut into matchsticks and bound in a mustard-heavy mayonnaise. The most ordered starter in France and…
Whole leeks poached until completely soft, pressed, and dressed while warm with a mustard vinaigrette. Served cold…
Halved boiled eggs under a blanket of proper mayonnaise. There is a French society dedicated to defending it, which…
Grated carrot in a lemon and mustard dressing with parsley. Two minutes of work, and the only variable that matters…
Green lentils dressed hot with mustard vinaigrette and shallot. Puy lentils if you can, because they hold their…
Choux buns with cheese beaten through, baked until hollow and eaten warm with a glass of something cold. Burgundy…
Pork shoulder cooked for hours in its own fat until it can be pulled to threads, packed into a pot and sealed. A…
A coarse country pâté of pork, liver and fat baked in a bain-marie and pressed overnight. Rustic on purpose — you…
Ham set in a parsley jelly made from its own cooking stock, from Burgundy. Turned out and sliced, and the parsley…
Snails baked under garlic and parsley butter until it bubbles over the shells. The butter is the recipe; the snails…
Black olives, capers, anchovy and garlic pounded to a rough paste. Named for the capers — tapena — which everyone…
Anchovies melted into olive oil with garlic and served warm for dipping raw vegetables into. Three ingredients and…
Garlic pounded to a cream and emulsified with olive oil, sometimes with a yolk to help it. Provence eats it with…
Salt cod beaten with potato, garlic, oil and milk into a warm purée. Nîmes makes it without potato and everyone else…
Eggs poached in red wine and served on fried bread under a sauce made from the same wine. Burgundy taking the…
Leek and potato soup enriched with cream and served cold. Invented in New York by a French chef, which the French…
The hot original that vichyssoise is a chilled version of: leeks, potatoes, water and butter. Julia Child called it…
The Gascon soup of cabbage, beans and preserved duck, thick enough that the spoon should stand up in it. A meal, not…
Whole small fish cooked down and forced through a mouli, served with rouille, croutons and grated cheese. Not…
Braised beef minced by hand under a potato purée and baked. The French version predates the English one and is made…
Chicken braised with peppers, tomato and piment d'Espelette from the Basque country. The peppers are cooked down to…
A whole chicken stuffed and poached with vegetables, the broth served first and the meat after. Henri IV wanted…
Lamb braised with the first vegetables of spring, each added at its own moment. The vegetables are the point, not a…
Beef marinated in red wine with orange peel and cooked for three and a half hours. Provence rather than Burgundy —…
Beef braised in dark beer with a slice of mustard-spread bread laid on top, which dissolves and thickens the sauce…
Sauerkraut cooked in riesling with a collection of pork and sausages piled on top. Alsace, and the sauerkraut should…
Duck breast started in a cold dry pan so the fat renders out slowly and the skin turns to glass. Fifteen minutes…
Roast chicken with butter under the skin and lemon inside, started on its side. The French method turns the bird…
Leg of lamb studded with garlic and anchovy and roasted pink over potatoes that catch the juices. The anchovy is not…
Lamb shoulder cooked for seven hours until it can be served with a spoon. No knife on the table, which is the…
Raw beef chopped by hand and seasoned at the table with capers, shallot, mustard and egg yolk. Chopped, never minced.
Sirloin with a red wine and shallot sauce built in the pan the steak came out of. Marchand de vin means wine…
Chicken breast wrapped around ham and cheese, breaded and fried. Swiss in origin, French in execution, and the seal…
Lamb kidneys seared hard and finished in a mustard cream sauce. Fifteen minutes, and the kidneys must leave the pan…
Calf liver with onions cooked slowly to sweetness and a splash of vinegar at the end. Lyon does it best and does not…
Black pudding fried with apples cooked down in butter. Sweet against iron, and about as good as twenty minutes of…
Chicory braised, wrapped in ham, covered in béchamel and baked. The bitterness of the chicory is the point and is…
Pike beaten with choux paste into weightless dumplings, poached and baked in a crayfish sauce. Lyon, and one of the…
Puff pastry cases filled with chicken, sweetbreads and mushrooms in a cream sauce. Named for Queen Marie…
Mussels steamed open in white wine with shallots, and chips fried twice. The mussel liquor is the sauce and should…
Sole poached in cider and cream with mussels and prawns. Normandy, so cider and cream rather than wine and butter.
Monkfish in a sauce of tomato, brandy and shellfish stock. Armoricaine after Brittany, though half of France still…
A whole fish buried in salt bound with egg white and baked. The crust sets hard, seals completely, and the fish…
Three cheeses melted into white wine with garlic and kirsch. The cornflour is not cheating — it is what stops the…
Potato purée beaten with fresh tomme until it becomes elastic enough to lift in ropes. From the Aubrac, and the…
Sliced potatoes fried slowly in fat and folded with fresh tomme until they form a single cake. The Auvergne cousin…
Peppers, tomatoes and onions cooked down to a jam with Espelette, then eggs stirred through. Basque, and often eaten…
Courgettes cooked down with rice and bound with egg and cheese, from Provence. The rice is cooked in the courgette…
Macaroni in a nutmeg béchamel under Gruyère and breadcrumbs. The French version is looser and less cheesy than the…
Curly endive with hot bacon, a vinegar-deglazed dressing and a poached egg on top. The dressing is made in the bacon…
A French omelette: pale, rolled, and barely set inside. Two minutes of cooking and about a decade of getting it right.
A country loaf of white and wholemeal flour raised with a levain, baked dark. The crumb should be open and the crust…
Provençal bread slashed into a leaf shape and stretched so the cuts open. More crust than crumb, which is the point.
A dense walnut loaf that turns faintly purple where the nuts touch the crumb. Made for cheese and very little else.
Alsatian flatbread with fromage blanc, onion and bacon, baked in two minutes at the top of a furnace-hot oven. Thin…
A salade niçoise pressed into a round loaf until the bread soaks up the dressing. Bagnat means bathed, and the…
Buckwheat crêpes filled with ham, cheese and an egg, the edges folded into a square. Savoury and dark, and a…
A poaching sausage baked inside brioche. Lyon, and the trick is that the sausage is cooked and cooled before it is…
Laminated dough rolled around two batons of chocolate. The same dough as a croissant, and the same single problem…
A thin pastry case filled with lemon curd set with butter and eggs. Sharp enough to make you blink, which is the…
Apple slices fanned over an apple purée in a thin pastry case, glazed with apricot. The purée underneath is what…
Apples baked into an almond custard in a pastry case, with Calvados. Wetter and richer than a plain apple tart and…
A deep custard tart with a thick, wobbling set and a scorched top. Sold by the slab in every French bakery and…
A dense batter pudding with prunes, somewhere between a clafoutis and a flan. Brittany, and traditionally made with…
Laminated dough with sugar folded into the layers, so it caramelises against the tin and sets into glass. Breton for…
A ring of choux split and filled with praline mousseline, made for a bicycle race and shaped like a wheel. The…
Puff pastry base, choux buns dipped in caramel, and piped crème chiboust between them. Named after the patron saint…
A large choux bun with a small one on top, both filled and glazed, finished with a collar of buttercream. Meant to…
Six layers: almond sponge soaked in coffee syrup, coffee buttercream, chocolate ganache, repeated, and a poured…
Strawberries stood upright around the edge of a génoise, packed in mousseline cream. Summer, and the strawberries…
Discs of nut meringue layered with buttercream. Chewy rather than crisp, which is what separates it from a vacherin.
Chestnut purée pushed through a ricer into vermicelli over meringue and cream, made to look like the mountain. Piped…
Almond cream sealed between two discs of puff pastry, the top scored in curves from the centre. The scoring is what…
A yeasted sponge soaked until it is saturated with rum syrup. It should be heavy with it — a dry baba is a failed one.
Baked custard turned out so the caramel runs down it. The caramel goes into the moulds first and dissolves into a…
Poached meringue floating on crème anglaise under a thread of caramel. The meringue is poached in milk, not baked.
Rice cooked slowly in vanilla milk until it is creamy but the grains still hold. Served warm in the bowl it was…
Small almond cakes made with brown butter and egg whites, baked hot so the edges crisp. Named for the gold-bar shape…
Puff pastry rolled in sugar, folded into a heart and baked until the sugar caramelises on both faces. Three…
Small choux buns rolled in pearl sugar and baked empty. Sold by weight in paper bags and eaten before you get home.
The cake every French child learns first, measured in the empty yogurt pot rather than on scales. Plain, reliable…