Charoset

What's Going On Here

The texture is meant to recall mortar, and it should be coarse and sticky rather than smooth. Charoset is the sweet paste on the Passover plate, eaten between two pieces of matzo with bitter herbs, and it stands for the clay and straw the ancient Israelites used to build in Egypt. Every community has its version. This is the Ashkenazi one, of apples, walnuts, wine and cinnamon.

Chop the apples by hand, finely, to pieces about the size of a lentil. Use a sweet, firm variety such as Gala or Braeburn. Chop the walnuts to the same size. A food processor works, but pulse it a few times only. Over-processing turns the mixture into a puree. Mortar should have some grit.

Mix the apples and walnuts with sweet red wine, such as Manischewitz or any sweet kosher wine, a sprinkle of cinnamon and a spoonful of honey. The wine should dampen the mixture without drowning it. Taste: it should be sweet, spiced and a little tart.

Chill for an hour before serving. The apples soften and the wine soaks in. Use it on matzo with horseradish, or as a topping for yoghurt.